Tear the Roof Off: On a recent visit, Pisoni barbecued for Nepenthe staffers as they tasted a range of his wines featured at their Big Sur restaurant. Later they leapt into his ’59 Jeep for vineyard tours. Finally, after Pisoni shouted, “Come to my house!” they retreated to his modest Gonzales farmhouse to ramp up the rowdy by candlelight in the wine cellar.